Method of manufacturing new articles of jewelry and ornaments



. Aprll 9,1935. D. SWARQVSKI METHOD OF MANUFACTURING NEW ARTICLES OFJEWELRY AND 0 Filed April 6, 1952 Fig?! I RNAMENTS 2 Shets-Sheet 1 April9, 1935. D. swARovsm 1997500 NG NEW ARTICLES OF JEWELRY AND ORNAMENITSFiled April 6, 1932 v 2 Sheets-Shet 2 METHOD OF MANUFACTURI PatentedApr. 9, 1935 UNITED STATES METHOD or ones or .mwnmr This inventionrelates to a new and improved method of manufacturing new articles ofjewelry and ornaments consisting essentially of stones or paste embeddedin a foundation made of plastic substances.

It has been the practice in the manufacturing of such articles ofjewelry and ornaments i'rom imitation diamonds or paste either to fastenthese stones in shells of metal or glass, or to mount the same insettings by the rolling of the edges of the latter or by the bendingover of projections provided for the purpose, or. to stick or cementthese stones in depressions. With the first mentioned method ofmounting, the stones are apt to become damaged, while the sticking orcementing of the stones in depressions has the disadvantage that thestones are held in place merely by the adhesive power of the stickingsubstance or cement used and can therefore easily break loose. Common toall these methods is the further disadvantage of comparatively high costof production, since several consecutive time-consuming operations orprocesses are necessary.

p In accordance with the present invention the above-mentioned drawbacksare obviated by ar-; ranging that simultaneously with the shaping of theornament by the pouring or pressing of the foundation substance intoasuitable mould the stones themselves are mounted or fixed iii positionand, if desired, the clasp or other means of attachment is also securedin position on the ornament.

The carrying outof the invention and some of the new articles areillustrated with the aid of a number of examples in the accompanyingdrawings, in which:--

Figs. 1 and 2'show the parts of the pressing or casting mould, in twodifferent variations, in

section.

Figs. 3 and 4 show a stone with its setting taken from each of theornaments made in the moulds shown in Figs. 1 and 2 respectively.

Fig. 5 shows a type of mould used in manufacturing buttons in accordancewith the present invention.

Fig. 6 shows a finished button, in a modified form. I

Fig, 7 shows a type of mould for the manufacturing of an ornamentconsisting of stones held together by a network.

Figs. 8 and 9 show the finished product-obtained with the use of themould shown in Fig. "I, in side elevation and plan, respectively.

1,991,560 MANUFACTURING NEW ann- Daniel Swarovakl. Wattcns, Tyrol,Ami-1a Application April 8, 1932, Serial No. 603,639 In Austria June 9,1931 50mm. (or. 18-59) in the hot state.

of the ornament, the mounting of the stones,

of the lower portion H lowed upper portion PATENT orFicE AND ORNAMENTSFig. 10 shows a modified form of the last-shown type of mould.

Fig. 11 is a view in elevation of-a row of stones mounted in this typeof mould.

Fig. 12 illustrates, with the aid of a sectional view of a mould, amodification in the carryin out of the method according to theinvention.

Referring to Fig. 1, there are provided in the lower portion I of thematrix, which corresponds to the desired shape of the finished ornament,according to the intended arrangement of the stones, depressions each ofwhich is adapted to receive a stone. The stones 2 are placed with theirouter faces downwards in these depressions, and these depressions andthe stones are so dimensioned that the edge 3 at which the stone islargest in diameter assumes a position above the edge 4 of thedepressions in the mould. In the upper part 5 of the matrix the clasp orfastening set 6 is soinserted that the portions thereof to bev embeddedin the plastic foundation material project into the hollow space withinthe mould. The plastic substance used, such as, for example, celluloid.or the like, rubber, synthetic resin, or artificial horn, is thenpressed or poured into the closed mould in the cold or In this mannerthe shaping and the fixing in position of the fastening set are alleffected simultaneously in a single working process. The plasticsubstance I adapts itself uniformly to the shape of the surface of thestones (see Fig. 3) and overlapstheir edge 3, without in any waydamaging the stones orv shifting the same from theirrespective.positions. The pressed or cast articles are removed from themould after hardening, and are then completely finished, except for anyslight ,touching up which may possibly be necessary.

The form shown in Fig. 2 is modified to the extent that the lowerportions 8 of the matrix is provided with prominences 9 which enclosehol-' lows which are coaxial with the stones, and which are filled outby the plastic material when the mould is closed. The setting of thestones then appears inrelief on the surface of the foundation material(see Fig. 4). The edge 3 of the stones is in this case enclosed in anannular bead III of the foundation material.

. For the maufacturing of abutton a mould of the type shown in; Fig. 5isemployed. The shape of the matrix H is similar to that of thecorresponding lower portion of the matrix. 8 in Fig. 2. In thebell-shaped hol- II there is inserted the fas- REiSS been kept in placeby suction, into tener for the button. This fastener consists of an eyeI! and of a curved member ll which lies close against the arched innersurface of the upper part of the mould, the ends of this member beingbent inwards to form hooks which become anchored in the foundationsubstance.

The button shown in Fig. 6 is manufactured in a very similar manner.With a view to being sewn on to fabrics this button is provided with twoholes l which are formed by means of die slidably arranged in the upperportion of the matrix, these die being inserted into the hollow of themould before casting and subsequently withdrawn therefrom. These diethus constitute the negative of the fastener for the button.

For the manufacturing of groups and sets of stones in rows held togetherby a. network of threads or fine wires the mould shown in Fig. 7 .isemployed. The lower portion l6 of the matrix accommodates the stones ina manner similar to that shown in Fig. 2 and is provided withprominences I l the shape of which in plan corresponds to theintermediate spaces l1 between the individual stone settings (see Fig.9). Between these 'prominences there are left grooves in which thethreads l8,

been filled out with the plastic foundation material the fiat pressingdie 5, which is shown in the drawing in the lifted-off position, ispressed upon the mould, thus forming a meshed strip of stones insettings held together by threads (see 'Fig. 8.). The threads or wiresare deeply embedded in the foundation substance 1, with the result thatthe finished strip acquires a certain 'degree of stiffness or rigiditywhich renders the same particularly suitable for attachment to planesurfaces.

Yielding or supple strips of this type, such as are. required moreparticularly for sewing on to fabrics, are manufactured by means of themould shown in Fig. 10. This mould is distinguished from the previouslydescribed mould by the fact that the lower portion IQ of the matrix ismade "very shallow, while the upper portion 20 is provided with archedhollows or recesses 2| for the reception of the plastic foundationmaterial which, during the casting process, surrounds threads I8, I 8"laid cross wise over the stones in shallow grooves (see Fig. ll).

Under certain circumstances it can be advisable to arrange the stones inthe upper portion of the matrix. In this case there are provided in theupper portion 23 of the mould channels 22 which issue in the cavitiesprovided for the reception of the stones, and which are connected to anydesired suction pipe line which is not shown in the drawing (Fig. 12).In the lower portion of the mould there is placed the reinforcementwhich, in the present instance consists of wires 24. After the fillingof the lower portion 25 with the plastic foundation material the upperportion is placed in position, thus pressing the stones, which have theplastic material to a, depth to cover their largest diameter.

The decorative effect of articles of ornamentation and jewelry thusmanufactured can be increased by the employed of tinted foundationmaterials, or by subsequently colouringor metallically coating thesurface of the foundation. It will also be clear that the variousmodifications of the method described can be combined, so that, forexample, articles made by the method illusl8' are placed. After themould has.

trated in Fig. 12- are with naming means of the type shown in Fig. '6,and so forth.

I claim: 1. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists inprovidlng a stone with a crown portion and a belt at the constitutingthat portion maximum cross section, supporting said stone in a mold partwith the crown vertically embedded in said mold part and the belt spacedfrom the surface of said mold part, and forcing plastic material aroundthe exposed part of the stone to engage over the belt an against theexposed part of the crown. V

-2. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists inproviding a series of stones each with a crown portion and a belt at themajor base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone havingthe maximum cross section, supporting said stones in spaced relation ina mold part with the crown of each partially embedded in said mold partand the belt of each spaced from the surface of said mold part, forcinga continuous mass of plastic material around all the exposed portions ofsaid stones to engage over their belts and against the exposed portionsof their crowns, and simultaneously weakening the plastic materialbetween adjacent stones.

3. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists in providinga series of stones each with a crown portion and a belt at the majorbase of the crown constituting that portion of the major base of thecrown of the stone having thestone having the maximum cross section,supporting said stones in spaced relation in a mold part with the crownof each partially embedded in said mold part and the belt of each spacedfrom the surface of said'mold part, arranging flexible strands acrosssaid stones in spaced relation to the surface of said mold part, forcinga continuous mass of plastic material around said strands and all theexposed portions of said stones to engage over their belts and againstthe exposed portions of the crowns, and simultaneously weakening theplastic material between adjacent stones.

4. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists in providinga jewel stone with a crown portion and a belt at the major base of thecrown constituting that portion of the stone having the maximum crosssection, supporting said stone in a mold part with the crown verticallyembeddedin said mold part and the belt spaced from the surface ofsaidmold part, and forcing celluloid-like plastic material around theexposed part of the stone to engage over the belt and against theexposed part of the crown.

5. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists in providinga series of jewel stones each with a crown portion and. a belt at themajor base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone havingthe maximum cross section, supporting said stones in spaced relation ina mold part with the crownof each partially embedded in said mold partand the belt of each spaced from the surface of said mold pa'rt, forcing,a continuous mass of celluloid-like plastic ma-

